Memorable people

1. Anna. The young lady who secured a room for us our first night after Ronscasvillas. She spoke 4 different languages. A local hand told us the refugios were filled up (we figured he was the owner of a hotel in town). But Anna saved the day and found out different.
2. Phyllis. The young lady who joined us for supper with Anna. She looked like Katie Loetsch.
3. Jose Ramone. The delightful Spaniard who owned a refugio. He let us post our first pictures using his personal computer. He played Bach music. His girlfriend lived in North Carolina and he was going to see her this winter.
4. Pilar. The chef extraordinare with her soulful cooking and personality.
5. The ¨attitudinal¨waitresses and waiters.
6. Marie. The swedish lady.
7. Andy. The German guy.
8. Nurse from Missouri (it´s a small world)
9. Adolph. Pack adjuster.
10. Joseph & Chase. The wardens/jokesters.
11. Sweet girl. Making the Camino with her grandma.
12. Clarence. The Australian who is living in London now. Fell twice on his bicycle.
13. Pitro and son. Incense refugio.
14. Paul. Taxi drive from hell
15. Not Paul. Who was playing ¨are you ready for this¨on the radio as we stepped in his cab.

Got to go. The stores are finally open. They don´t open until 10:30. They close at 2. Then reopen at 4:30 until 8.

S.I.S.

Yup, they're back at it (shopping .in .Santiago .that is). After a short stop to drop their stuff at our new pad( and what a pad!!! Contemporary with all the bells and whistles.)and tuck me, the current sickie, in bed they headed out to donate a few more euros to the troubled Spanish economy.
It is a beautiful day and the city is packed with pilgrims- we've run into a few familiar faces too. I think I.ll be ready to get out tomorrow- I want to eat and shop too!!!!
See most of you this weekend!
Love, Fran

$

It´s getting to be a problem. My credit card got ate weeks ago, Lizzý´s shelled out today and Fran´s is good for who knows how long. Good thing there´s only one day left.

Pictures (hopefully)

In the mountains

Ready for a day on the camino

Even dogs do it

Lizzy talking to a cat

Lunch

Soaking our toes

We are ¨mirror¨ shadows of ourselves

The 100 km marker to Santiago

Another day, another xx km´s

Too anxious for that massage

St. Nicholas church

Monument of mother and child, with Jesus and cross on other side

Fran being a waitress

Fran not feeling too good

St. James Cathedral

We made it!

Santiago

We´re here. We went to the noon mass at St. James Catheral. It was packed. I tried to get pictures loaded onto the site but as usual it´s a no go. I don´t know why it doesn´t work most of the time.

Infirmary is full-up

Yup, Fran is now full blown sick. She has a 101 fever. Liz & I are taking good care of her. We left her in the hotel room and we´re shopping. She´s listening to gorgeous music drift into the balcony of our hotel room that over looks the plaza directly next to St. James Cathedral here in Santiago. She isn´t hungry so we ate for her...a delicious salmon and an egg & ham omelette.

See you all in a few short days. We have read the notes you gave us each and every day and it´s unbelievable how they seemed to tie-in to our day or our mood or a conversation we had just had. Thank you all so much for writing them.

Great News on Pictures

Goat, you asked how much it cost to develop pics and I got great news today. Walgreens is having a sale on picture developing 10 cents if you have more than 50. Tee, hee. When I get to your house we'll make a stop at Walgreens, download the pics and then tell them we want to pic them up at our destination town that day. You can do that.

Better, the sale goes on through the 4th so if we're on the ball, we can get wedding pics developed at a great price too. Most towns have a 24 hour Walgreens/photo center. Just thought I'd share.

I've been praying for you all during your pilgrimiage and I'm sure everyone's estactic to be done. Can't wait to see you! Love you!

infirmary is growing

Liz was first to get the bug Thursday night and was out for the day, so we taxied to Coto (outside of Palas de Rei) where we had stayed at a pension. The owner took good care of the sickie with lemon water and into bed. Friday night Rose got the bug so she´s in bed now while me and Fran blog away. I´m fine now it was just a 24 hour bug. Fran is healthy.
Tomorrow we plan on walking to Arca if we all feel good. And then Monday is SANTIAGO!!!!!!!!!!

Fran here- Hope to stay away from the intestinal bug that has hit Liz and Rose. My knee has appreciated the days off however. The weather is gorgeous (rain forcasted for tomorrow) and the town is big enough to have a Church, supermarket, cafes and places to explore. We are taking each day and dealing with it. Haven't had to use our sleeping bags for three nights- clean, fresh linen to snuggle into!
We are so looking forward to arriving in Santiago, and the nearer we get the more crowded the Camino is - constant stream of pilgrims on the trail, and lots of large groups.
We will try and post pics if Rose feels better this afternoon(she is our Tech-Mama ).
Can't wait to see all of you in a few days!!!!!!!!!
Love,
Fran and Liz

Mind vs body!

AND the mind won!! Today we started out in the darkness @ 7:30, but Rose had her headlight on and lead the way into Sarria. Our destination for the day was Portomarin, a new town, built when the old one was ¨"drowned" by the waters of the new reservoir. The beautiful fortified church of st. Nicolas was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in its present town position.
Back to walking- we were 5hrs. into our day and had only covered about 7miles of the 16 and I called "Uncle"!! My right knee and calf hurt with each step, so I opted to taxi into Portomarin and wait for the young-uns. I did make a big decision after the taxi ride her- I will do less bodily harm walking ( I´ll just slow my pace and take lots of drugs!!) then risking my life in a Spanish taxi- they are worse than New York or Chicago!!
The last 5 days of walking are 10-12 mile days so I should be OK. We are all in good spirits and throughly enjoying the beautiful countryside we are walking through. The weather has been greatand the forcast shows continued sun and mild temps- but we are in Galacia which is known for unsettling weather, so rain and cold temps can come anytime.
Marian, wanted you to know I threw your Sanibel shell into the pile on Cruz de Ferro and wished you peace of mind and body. We love you and miss you. I have been using my ipod since you aren,t here to keep me company on the trail. Rose and Liz are so good about slowing their pace for me.
Hugs and kisses your way--------Love, Fran

Pictures

Town bar we stopped at for coffee. Fran was paying the bill.
O´Cebreriro
Fran tending Liz´s boo-boo´s after long walk.

Castle at Ponferrada Goat helping Fran eat her snack
Marian and her farewell pose
Cathedral in Burgos

Relaxing on the trail (concrete lawn chairs) Team logo
Potatoes in the field
Reviewing the day of pictures
Eating out

Hangglider by the wind turbines outside of Pamplona

What goes up, must come down!!!!

Oh my knees are not happy with yesterdays 13 mile hike down from 1300 meters to 600!!! Today was a 11 mile trek up and down . Beautiful country side today and the same could have been said for yesterday, but we were up so high -the mist allowed us to see several feet in front of us and no further! We are at delightful alburque outside Sarria- chickens roam the grounds and we have a private room with bunks and our own bathroom!!!!! We have 6 more days of walking before we arrive in Santiago- we are all sooooo ready to take off our packs and boots!!!! Love to you all- see you next week!!!! Fran

Phone machines

We´re not having any luck with them. They don´t seem to be working. We´ll keep trying. The last one that did work was in a very noisy restaurant and it was hard to hear you talk.

Noodle...we´ve been trying to call you. Tried again this Sunday. I thought I was smart and tried the cell phone. But that wasn´t even a go. No reception up in the mountains.

So, we´ll keep trying at the end of each day to either post on LOS site, try to get pictures going again and try to call by phone.

See you all soon.

Perfect timing

Is what Fran had today when she met us at the top of the mountains of O´Cebreiro. Liz and I walked up the mountains today (day 25 on the site with the pictures). Tomorrow we´ll be in day 26 (OCebreiro to Sarria). Fran had a delightful time visiting with a couple from Germany who is spending their honeymoon doing the Camino. But Fran thinks their Camino is ended because of the girl´s blisters and the fact the guy is carrying all the packs(Fran figures 40#). We still can´t post our own pictures. I took 86 just today. Boy was it a great day. The trail was just full of pilgrims walking, but 75% of them just had light or no packs. Fran´s walking the rest of the way, but opted out today because of the steepness of the climb. We had a wonderful meal with their special cheese for dessert that they pour honey over. It´s like a rouqfort cheese. It´s regional. It´s called Cebreiro cheese. A very soft, fresh sweet cheese that you eat for dessert. The Galicia soup was the best to date....potato, great northern beans and a spinach like leaf.

A couple of days ago we were in a restaurant and the owner who was remarkable young woman named Pilar gave us paella with an assortment of ham appetizers. And this rustic bread that she´d grilled with a spicy rub on it. Best meal to date. She told us of her Camino travels. She has gone thru the more northern route that is more primitive and you see the sea. It was great but remote with no one around for days. She just opened up her restaurant in July. ´We wished her the best. She was so kind to us and really loved to cook and serve it to appreciative customers.

The reason Liz and I walked such a long way the other day was because Fran had said we need to walk 18 miles or take a taxi some of the way. Of course we said we´d walk. Well, when we started looking at the map the miles were actually 23 miles and Fran said if we didn´t get to the pre-determined VillaFranca it would mess up the rest of the days. Soooo, it´s all Fran´s doings. Tee hee.

Fran´s being a great sport. She has a little swelling in her knee but her knee braces help alot so she´s great as long as it´s not mountains and today was the last of the mountains.

Oh the views. We just could not get enough of them. Just had sprinkles today so the rain did not effect our views at all. But the word is tomorrow it´s rain. Finally a day of rain. Boy have we lucked out.

We miss each and every one of you. We´ll be home soon...just a little over a week. Today is Sunday and O´Cebreiro is full of Sunday tourists and lots of pilgrims because this starts the last 100 miles to Santiago and you have to walk that to be able to get your credentials stamped at the cathedral.

Bye for now....sleeping in the clouds. We´re in heaven.

Walking with the chestnut trees

Today was a great day for me because my favorite trees were all over the trail. We´re going at a delightful pace so I´m getting lots of pictures taken and enjoying it.We´re going more into the mountains.It´s day 24 on the Camino site that has all the trail pictures. Still no rain when we´re walking. The temperatures are great for walking

Feet fast

legs strong, we DID it all day long. 23 miles plus 1 going to supper! Not bad for two kind of old ladies. Took 10 hours. Glad to see Fran´s face at the pre-determined meeting place (VillaFranca).

We have a jingle : Four happy pilgrims on the road did roam.
One hurt her foot and had to go home.
Three sad pilgrims trudging along.
One elder whined about her load.
And two peppy pilgrims skipped down the road.

Rose was ¨fly lady¨ literally yesterday. About 20 flys kept buzzing around her head all afternoon. Nobody else had a similar close encounter.

We read a few more of Rich´s notes....we think there´s a theme. Tee hee.

Update #2

I am in Villifranca, the young-uns are still walking!!!!! There is a computer here at the refugio, so if they are not too exhausted when they arrive they can tell you about their day!
I walked thru beautiful farmland and vinyards today. Met a group of American students who are studying in Barclona and are taking a week to walk part of the Camino.
Today I used the mantra one of Marian´s friends sent her:
FEET FAST
LEGS STRONG
I CAN DO THIS ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!
Love, Fran

Update

FITE here. We were sad to see Marian return home, but supported her 100% in her decision. She walked on feet that I could not have walked several steps on, let alone miles!! She is one strong LOS!!!!!
Yesterday we completed the 13 mile hike up to 1500meters and then down!! It took 8hrs (several stops for food and drink). My knees were extremely sore, but after a good night sleep at a delightful Pension, I am on the trail again.
Today Rose and Liz wanted to walk the 23miles into Villifranca del Bierzo. I chose to taxi into a town and then walk 10 miles- thereby missing the steep decent into Ponferrada and a 2hr. slog thru a large industrial town. We are to meet at the refugio in Villifranca. Stories and pics to come..... Love, Fran

One less Pilgrim

There are now three pilgrims on the road to Santiago. This pilgrim finally threw in the towel and HOWLED "Uncle", but am getting better with the decision made in Burgos.
I have been home for a bit over 24 hours and have begun the healing process....both feet and spirits are getting better although still a bit fragile. I went to the Dr. yesterday and he said that I made a good decision to quit walking.....he did some cleaning up on a couple places on my feet and said that I would be walking again soon.
The problem with that statement is that I won't be walking with Team LOS, but know that I am there in desire and spirit......just couldn't get the feet to cooperate.
Love to all,
Mariann

Rabanal

JoJo, all is fine. We took two days off in Burgos and enjoyed the very cosmopolitan feel of a large city. Stayed at a very central older hotel that was a short walk from the gorgeous gothic cathederal and lots of good food and shopping.
Yesterday we bused again to Astorga and today walked 13 miles to Rabanal. We are staying at the same refugio Rose and I did 4 yrs ago. Tomorrow we accend to Cruz de Ferra - the highest point on the Camino!!!!! I brought four small shells from Sannibel to add to the pile of stones!
Showers and laundry are done. We have eaten and are relaxing until vespers at the small Monastary here at 7:30pm.
Tried to download some pics- no success. We will try again when we are in another town or refugio that has internet access. Twelve more days of walking before we arrive in Santiago- we are all looking forward to taking our boots and backpacks off!! LOVE; FRAN

Bus to Burgos.....

We are in Belorado waiting for the autobus that will take us into Burgos(30km) where we will spend several days giving our feet and spirits a rest!!!! Still on a day-by-day schedule. We walk, rest, eat, and laugh when the mood strikes the team!! It has been bitter cold today- only 39 degrees when we got up from our comfy bunk beds in a large refugio. Our pace this morning has been slow and casual as we stroll from one cafe to the next in search of the perfect cup of cafe con leche before our autobus arrives. Aside from walking the final 100km. into Santiago, we have no definite plans.
Burgos is a large city with lots to see and do. A magnificent Gothic cathederal, museums and fine food await us there. A room with a bathtub is also mandatory- and we plan on finding a laundramat so we can REALLY get our clothes clean- handwashing sucks!
We will hopefully be able to post pics and make phone calls in Burgos.
Hugs and kisses your way........Love, Fran

Me & Ninny

Here we are. In this Spanish joint with a beer in hand trying to figure out what to eat for supper. We have some more great pictures to post but we can´t. We are going to have a contest of ¨name that fruit...name that crop...name that farm implement...name the tractor... and the very popular (to anyone named John M) name that weed. BUT, can´t play until the internet site has UBS (or whatever it´s called) port. So stay tuned....such fun in Spain.

We haven´t hit the chocolate capital of the world (Astorga). It will be a high point for one member of the group....guess who.

Anyone remember when they had wringer washers. Too bad Spain doesn´t. They´re still at the use your wash bowl method. Boy will I appreciate a million things I took for granted before.

In the background Fran is doing her daily check of anyone´s blisters she knows about. But what she doesn´t know she can´t check. I´ll tell you later.

We´re just a hair off half-way. It´s flying and it isn´t. The pack is getting to be easier to carry and then it isn´t. I´m lovin it and I´m not. Ying and yang. But all in all it´s great.

Another day in Spain

From Mariann
We are in a delightful hostel with REAL SHEETS and a HOT shower......I am in heaven ( so maybe I am a JAP). The place is in a small village called Castildelgado in the Castilla y Leon region. After two nights in large municipal refugios and getting lost twice today, Rosie won a bet when a pilgrim would pass us (we had gone for QUITE a while without seeing any other pilgrims!!!!) and how far he had gone, so she picked the next stop. She did "real good".
JoJo.....FITE stands for Fran Is The Eldest.
Am doing better with the blisters......of course not done yet. Have learned a new sewing project since we have been here......hope that it will soon be finished. Will share that one when we get home!
We seem to walk from one church steeple to another.....look forward to see where we are going and back to see from whence we came.....absolutely stunning vistas.
Love ya all lots and miss everyone bunches. Keep the comments and prayers coming and they are going right back to all of you.
Love, Mariann


HI, Fran here. Mariann and I are roomies and after a shower, clothes washing and a short siesta we are down at the bar where we found internet service(15 mins for 1 euro) and a pay phone that will accept our phone card-Yeah!! Goat and Liz must still be taking a siesta. We´ll meet for supper and then after a nice nights sleep we will rise and shine for another day on the Camino.
TYPICAL CAMINO DAY FOR THE LOS:
If we are staying in a refugio the lights go on at 6am -as there is a mad scramble for alot of the pilgrims to be first out the door-they either plan on walking 30-40 kms, or just like to stumble in the dark. The LOS have no desire or stamina to put in 30-40kms(18-24miles!!!!!!) or risk great bodily injury negotiating the terrain in the dark. After we all do morning toilitries, pack our backpack, treat any injury that may need attention- ie-blisters and attempt to look forward to the days hike, we go out in search for cafe con leche(coffee with milk) and hopefully something for breakfast- my personal favorite is fritata ( a puffy omelet with potatoes and onions and pepper). We usually hit the trail 7:30-8 and walk until we all decide to stop- usually 8-12 miles. Then the search is on for a place to lay our weary heads- refugio, hostel, alburgue or hotel. Once at our residence for the night we head for a shower , wash some clothes and maybe a siesta before we head out in search for FOOD. Depending on what we had available for breakfast and lunch, we may seek out a restaurant that offers a "Pilgrim´s menu"- a three course yummy meal for 7-9euros!! Lights go out 9-10pm at refugios and then we wake up and repeat!
We are taking each day as it comes and have set no goals for distance etc. However, one member of our team did mention flying to a location where she could purchase fresh lobster and possibly visiting a beach while there .
We think of home and all of you lots- Love, Fran

Another Day Another 9 Miles

We made it further down the trail. It was a delightful non-hilly walk today. The alburgue (hostel) is right next to a refreshing stream that has rapids and crystal clear water. We had lunch under a tree by the stream. The place is a big one. Lots and lots of bunks for all us pilgrims. It´s way hot outside now. The sun really gets intense in the afternoons. Tomorrow is going to be a long one. On Sunday we´re going to have a contest to see who can pack their pack the fastest. The winner gets Fran´s gorgeous scarf. We are all coveting it.

Ode to Goat

I love you
I miss you
I think of you everyday.
Have a great time.
Your Sugar Bear.

A day of rest!!!!

Yesterday the LOS took a much needed day off in Logrona, the capital of the Navara region. A town of 139,000 and our hotel was on the edge of the Old City- full of cafes, beautiful churches and tons of people, locals and pilgrims, strolling with their children and dogs.
Today we did a short 8 mile hike into Navarette(in La Rioja region- wine capital of Spain). We are at a nice Hostal with our own room, 2 single and abunk bed, and own bathroom!!!!! Rain with lots of thunder today as we were taking a siesta. Still dealing with blisters (Marian got new shoes in Logrona and her feet are much better today), colds and general sore muscles and joints. Tonight we will dine on Paella , the region specialty of rice with various sea foods and meats-YUMMY!!
Everyone we meet along the way, be they pilgrims or locals, are so kind and generous. Our minimal Spanish , along with sign-language and universl words and phrases ie.¨"Kaput", "OK", etc. are getting us what we need.
I am in a small shop that caters to the young people (candy and snacks sold) and a grup of 6 young girls (12 or 13) came into the room and started to say a few words in English- "Hi", "How are you?" they loved to practice the English they study in school.
We will attempt another 10-12 mile day tomorrow if the feet and joints allow- Hugs and kisses to one and all!!!!
Fran (aka FITE)

Churches and accommodations

Surprise!

Roaming

In answer to Joann´s question about if we check out anything off the trail, the answer is no. We stick to the Camino trail in order to hopefully do the whole thing (the marked trail).

We are taking a break in Logrono but tomorrow we hit the trail again. The BBC news weatherman said rain in Madrid so we´ll see if we´ll be walking in rain tomorrow.

We´ll post more pictures next week. We have to load the whole entire thing and then select the ones we want. It´s a long process so once a week is manageable.

For All to See